Loving the land of your birth
I love to travel, and not just abroad. I have a deep connection to my own country, and continent, with its vast spaces that I have not even begun to explore.
The Kgalagadi, a new addition to my African explorations
As you know from my last post I was about to embark on a journey to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park with my husband and youngest son.
Over three thousand kilometres later, I can tell you the week was a resounding success. I have a new addition to my portfolio of favourite African wild destinations.
Magic of the Kalahari
If you are not captivated by wide vistas, the spice box colours of an arid landscape, or sunsets intensified by swirling dust clouds, perhaps this is not for you.
However, if you are awed by the tenacity of survival the fauna and flora in a seemingly hostile environment, and you are prepared to make time to really see the minutiae of their daily life, or if you thrill to the beauty of the Kalahari desert, with a seamless blue sky arching overhead, then put this on your bucket list.
Beauty of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier park
Straddling two countries, South Africa and Botswana, and nestled against the Namibian border it seems a harsh and even hostile place. Allow the heat to soak into your soul and you realise it is a starkly beautiful environment, dominated by red dunes and dry rivers. It has a fascinating history, both modern and ancient, and a rich diversity of birds and animals.
Rewards for wildlife enthusiasts
Although famous for the black maned Kalahari lions and other predators as well herds of springbok and wildebeest, there are a host of other sightings that will keep you coming back. Among my favourites are the raptors that rule the sky.
The waterholes, strung like precious pearls, along the length of the dry rivers of the Aoub and the Nossub, are a drawcard for concentrations of animals and birds.
The Park is ideal for photographers
Photographers, seem to be divided into those that rush to prime spots at water holes, point their super large lenses out their vehicle windows and wait for something to happen.
The technique must reap rewards. Returning from a three hour explore of the Park the same vehicles would still be there, lenses aimed, safe guarding their spot.
Then there are those that make their way slowly through the park allowing it to reveal its treasures slowly.
Benefits of moving slowly through the Park
Thankfully, our photographer son is a keen birder, and loves the small stuff as much he does a leopard or a lion.
Rather than jostling for space, we press on. I cannot tell you how many times we stopped to watch a squirrel, or identify a bird and were rewarded by an unexpected sighting of a Bat- eared fox, or an African wild cat as well as lion, leopard and cheetah.
Coping with the Kalahari heat
Our visit is the end of the dry season, before the summer rain transforms the bare earth into a temporary tapestry of flowers and green grass, but that is an experience for another visit.
The intense, dry heat made early starts to our day compulsory. It also afforded our photographer a chance to maximize the golden light that suffuses the park in the early morning.
The bulk of the day was spent in refuge from the heat. Perfect time to read or write or simply daydream. As the gates to the camps close at seven thirty in the evenings there is ample time to explore the Park again in the late afternoon.
Birding rewards in the Kgalagadi
Despite the sparse vegetation the park is rich in bird life particularly along the Nossub River bed. Here the majestic Camelthorn trees provide ideal nesting and roosting spots.
We saw a silly number of raptors, not surprising seeing as two thirds of the raptor species in South Africa can be found in the Park. We were thrilled to spot five of the six species of owl found in the park.
There is nothing as mesmerising as the continual rollover of a flock of thousands of queleas drop down to drink and avoid the determined killer swoops of Lanner falcons.
We also witnessed the most amazing interactions between birds and other species.
Nossub and Mata Mata Camps
Our week was split between the two SANPark Camps, Nossub in the centre, and Mata Mata against the Namibian border post.
The heat forced us to spend a lot of time in the camps. This had its rewards as we got to experience the charms of the smaller birds and mammals who have adapted to the easier life of living in the camp itself. Nossub has a particularly rewarding hide overlooking the waterhole.
The Kalahari, a place to visit over and over
A week, especially when it’s so richly rewarding, flies by so quickly. All too soon we were back on the road.We overnighted in Uppington and then tackled the long road back to Cape Town.
We are united in our determination to visit again as soon as we can, to explore the wild camps, the Botswana side, and experience all it has to offer in the different seasons.
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