Camping in Khwai: the Magothlo Campsite
On the northern banks of the Kwhai river, bordering the Moremi reserve, lies a wildlife rich concession area, administered by the Khwai Development Trust.
Wild Camping
Our destination, for the next three days, is the Magothlo Campsite, managed by the Trust, set under large camel-thorn trees, along the banks of the Khwai river. Unfenced, this is as wild as it gets, we shared our experience with all manner of wildlife, especially elephant.
Stick to the rules
As the wonders of this enchanting wild space far outweighed the difficulties, I’m only going to touch lightly on two snags we encountered. This gorgeous little camp has a limited number of sites, and you are required to book well in advance. You should be in possession of a voucher, with your allocated site number, when you arrive.
If the idea of this kind of holiday appeals, please respect the booking procedure. At no time is it acceptable to appropriate someone else’s site. It causes unnecessary unpleasantness, and overcrowding detracts from the experience for everyone. Not to mention the unnecessary strain on the precious, but delicate ecosystem.
Respect the rules of conduct
The other perturbing matter, was the unruly conduct of some visitors, at predator sightings. This included individuals out of their vehicles, making unnecessary noise, and hogging the sighting. Believe it or not, a board, listing the rules, is displayed at the entrance of the camp. Rules are there for a good reason, we are so privileged to be able to spend time in such close proximity to wild, and potentially dangerous creatures, but with that privilege comes a responsibility to honour the regulations that keep us, and the environment, safe, even when there is no visible enforcing of the rules.
Moving on
That said, the Khwai Concession is a special place, and I was not going to let the selfish behavior of others detract from that experience. Some of the treasured memories I took away included the humbling experience of elephants roaming around our camp, picking up the pods of the giant Camelthorn trees, that had rained down on our tents, after a good tree- shaking by these majestic beasts.
Early mornings along a river
Early morning drives along the river were truly special, as the sun rose, and warmed the land, and the park came to life. Herds of lechwe, and waterbuck, were a common sight grazing close to the water. I loved the delightful oddness of red hartebeest, and we had abundant sightings of hippo, crocodile, elephant, buffalo and numerous wading birds.
Honey badger rules
In the evenings, our campsite was commandeered by a cheeky honey badger, nicknamed Sugar by our guide. The attraction, and challenge, was the food stored in the trailer, thankfully an unsuccessful mission, despite his persistence. To our amusement, he appointed himself our night watchman, not for altruistic reasons I’m sure. He warded off the opportunistic hyenas, circling the camp, with fierce chattering, and a comical mock charge.
Daylight opportunists
During the day, a myriad of birds held court in our camp, they were as opportunistic as our night visitors, and included starlings, babblers, Meyers parrots and hornbills.
Spectacular sunsets
Of course, the sunsets were spectacular, and sundowners alongside the river were always a highlight of the fading day.
Mokoro Magic
For me, the experience that best captures this area was the mokoro trip. A mokoro is a long, canoe- like boat, made from fiberglass. It is a replica of the traditional mokoro made from a hollowed out tree, once used for transport and fishing by local communities, now a popular tourist method of exploring the Okavango Delta. It is guided through the shallow channels by a boat-man, using a long pole.
The thrill, and the beauty, of experiencing the Delta this way is indescribable. Initially I was apprehensive, it was hard to imagine not being in danger from herds of elephant, or fractious hippo that frequent the river.
As breathtaking as a painting
My fear evaporated as soon as I saw the Monet- worthy water, densely covered in sweetly scented waterlilies. Each boat took two people, and a local Khwai Development Trust guide, who navigated us down the channel, whilst sharing their knowledge of this watery haven.
Speaking elephant
The guides were delightful; articulate, and knowledgeable, with heart capturing smiles, and a deep pride and love of the Delta. Any anxiety I had about the elephants was soon put to rest. As luck would have it, my son and I were in the boat with the ‘elephant whisperer’. Every time we came across elephants in, or near the water, the other boats fell back, and we move to the head of the convoy. He then called out a command in a local language (phonetically it sounded like Heeda or heeta) in a firm, assertive voice, and the elephants move off like naughty schoolboys. If they didn’t react immediately, the other guides took up the cry, until they responded. I noticed our guide was alert to the elephants behaviour, and backed off, or approached accordingly. At no time did we feel threatened.
Life on a river- An African version of ‘Wind in the Willows’
Once I knew the channel was too shallow for hippos, I relaxed into the hypnotic sensation of traversing an exquisite stretch of water. The birdlife was so rich, and varied I cannot begin to do it justice. NeuroticAfrican Jacanas constantly took off just ahead of our boat, with an indignant squawk, and legs trailing, only to land a few feet ahead and then repeat the whole silly procedure as we approached again.
A visual feast
I lost count of the striated herons, intently staring into the water. A fish eagle swept low and lazy over us, gone before anyone could focus a camera, a darter so intent on sunning his outspread wings, he didn’t bother to fly off as we glided past. Every bend revealed another treasure, a painted reed frog, clinging to a reed, as delicate, and as arresting as any jewel, the flash of a malachite kingfisher that had us gasping in delight, or a tiny pied kingfisher surfacing with a fish after a death defying dive.
Antelope antics
At one point we rounded a bend and startled a herd of waterbuck, they launched themselves out of the water with astounding grace and strength, haloed by golden droplets in the late afternoon sun.
A herd of rare, and reclusive Roan antelope stepped out of the bush, and made their way to the water, to drink. The sighting was as magical as seeing a herd of unicorn.
A wonder of waterlilies
As our guide gently poled us through the delicate waterlilies, we learned that they are more than just a source of sensory pleasure, they are an important food source for animals, and harvested by local people too. Once pollinated by the insects, attracted by their irresistible scent, the flowers change from white to purple.
A clash of elephants
All too soon our trip is over, we have one final thrilling moment as two fighting male elephants, stumble toward us, in self- absorbed rage.There is no time for panic, with alacrity we were poled backwards, away from the trumpeting, and locking of tusks. The guides took up their warning cry, and beat the sides of their boats. The spat ended, as quickly as it began, and the two grumbling elephants retreated to the bank.
Perfect end to a perfect day
We slipped past, as silent as the lengthening shadows, exhilarated by our very small taste of the wonders of the Delta. A Highly recommended activity.
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